Okay, I've been a little lazy and not updated this here blog in a while. Apologies to all my fans. I returned from Istanbul a few days ago, and since then have been...ahem....extremely busy. Oh ok, I've just been bumming around my house, but relaxing is a full time job! The last time I wrote here I was half way through my holiday in Istanbul, and the second half was equally as fun and bizarre. Instead of detailing everything we did over there, I thought I would summarise what I thought were the best and worst bits. Overall, I really enjoyed the holiday, but unlike many of the places in the world I have visited and become besotted with, Turkey is certainly one place I would never want to live in and possibly never visit again. Although very pretty and historically rich, it is a somewhat confused land, filled with inequality, racism, identity-crisis (are they European or Asian?) and way too much meat.
The highs:
The Blue Mosque. I don't care what people say, but I think this mosque is much more pretty and grand than the Aya Sofya over the road. I know that architecturally the Aya Sofya was a ground-breaker, but I think the Blue Mosque has a sort of tranquility and sereneness about it, while it's rival felt colder and hostile. Maybe it's because the Blue Mosque is still used by hundreds of people to pray in, whereas the Aya Sofya is nothing more than a cash-hungry tourist attraction. A little fact for you: the mosque acquired its informal name due to the tens of thousands of handmade blue tiles that decorate the interior. Amazing.
The Grand Bazaar. There are over 4000 shops and several kilometres of lanes in the covered market, and it felt like we visited them all. We certainly got lost in the maze of shops a few times. Bargaining is pretty easy, as most of the shopkeepers speak English/Spanish, and so you can purchase wares at reasonable prices. We picked up a few things for our future house :-) Interesting discovery: you get lower prices if you speak Spanish than if you speak English.
Karadeniz Aile Pide Ve Kebap Salonu. So good we frequented it twice, this was the place to go to get a tasty pide and some "poofy bread" to dip into your houmous. The waiters were also very keen to promote how romantic it was to eat at the restaurant (i.e. they lit a tea-light on the table).
Dolmabahce Palace. An imperial pleasure palace with neo-classical exterior and tremendously over-the-top interior. Inside the highlights include chandeliers weighing 2000kg, and a crystal staircase.
Kariye Muzesi. Once the Church of the Holy Saviour Outside the Walls, it served as a mosque for four centuries and is now a museum. It is filled with amazing frescoes and mosaics depicting various biblical stories. It's over 1000 years old and in really good condition, and if you ever visit Istanbul, make sure you go here. Although, you might want to take a taxi to the museum as it is on the top of a rather steep hill...which, ahem....we climbed. At least we earned the pine-mastic pudding we had afterwards! (Anyone who can tell me what "pine-mastic" means wins a piece of Turkish Delight.)
The lows:
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. Okay, the museum was packed full of various artefacts from various ages, and there were English labels for a change. But it was about 1000 degrees in the museum and there were more carpets and kilims than I can stand to look at in one go. They didn't really explain why each carpet was noteworthy, and so it basically felt like we were in a carpet warehouse. The calligraphy exhibits were really good though.
Airport and museum security. Pretty much at every museum/palace we visited we had to pass through security, which involved my bag being x-rayed and having to walk through metal-detectors. At the airport, before we even got to check-in we had to lug our suitcases into an x-ray machine and take off shoes and belts etc. And then we had to do it again before we got on the plane. And there are so many people who insist on checking your passport. WHY???!
Turkish Airlines & Stansted Airport. All I can say is, never again to both of them. Gatwick and easyjet now seem like paradise.