Rain. Why so much rain? There were bursts on Friday, and again on Saturday for most of the morning and early afternoon, and today is pretty overcast. Obviously, I know it is the rainy season here, and expect it to be wet a lot, but it would be so great of it rained equatorial style here, in one big burst for a couple of hours in the afternoon, and then no more until exactly the same time the next day. Anyway, I woke up on Saturday with the plan of meeting Isabelle to go to Bonfim, but it was absolutely chucking it down, so Isabelle, Kent (an Americano), Steve (guess!) and I dashed to the nearby Museu Afro-Brasilero for shelter. Turns out it was R$5 to get in, so we had a look around. The ground floor is filled with various artefacts recording the black contribution to Brazilian culture. One of the best rooms was filled with carved panels by Carbé (Bahia´s most famous artist). The 27 carved wooden panels depicted the gods and godesses of Candomblé. For those who don´t know, Candomblé is a popular Afro-Brazilian religion. The followers dress in white and worship together in a dance, with music and singing. A lot of people go to watch Candomblé ceremonies here, but as much as it looks interesting, I also feel a little sceptical about going to a ceremony that they know tourists are coming to watch. Surely, you are taking something away from the meaning of it all, and turning it into a money-making show for people who think it is a value-for-money, real Brazilian experiences. Anyway, I digress. The museum was suprisingly good,though it would have helped to have English descriptions here and there. Within the museum was the Museu Arqueológico e Etnológico. It was in the basement of the main 19th century building,and incorporates the only surviving part of the old Jesuit college, a section of the cellars. In the cave-like setting were various costumes, jewelery items and weapons from Indian tribes in Brazil. It was quite interesting to see all the outfits and masks from the African side, because you don´t usually find this sort of thing in museums in the UK or Europe, unless there is a specific exhibition going on.
Next, we dashed to the Catedral Basilica across from the museum. This was once the chapel of the largest Jesuit seminary outside Rome. The inside of the cathedral as just amazing and unexpected, given the grubby, drab exterior. The ceiling was made of panelled, carved and guilded wood, and the side chapels decorated heavily in gold and in a sort of Roccoco style. Behind the main part of the cathedral was a recently restored sacristy, where portraits of Jesuit luminaries (on the wall and ceiling) gaze down intimidatingly on intruders. Downstairs was the crypt, alongside a constant nativity scene. One of the bricked-up crypts looked like it was freshly used, as the cement seemed a little new. Creepy.
From here, we rushed over to the Igreja de São Francisco, which is one of the best examples of azulejo work in Brazil (Portuguese blue tiling, used to tell a story). We had a quick look around, but didn´t pay to get into the church proper, as we decided lunch was more important. Down the road we found a bizarre creperie-cum-hostel filled with youngsters. Anyway, the crepes were sooooo good and filling. I may go back one day for a sweet version.
By now the rain had died down so we headed towards the Mercado Modelo, an old covered market, which has plenty of stalls selling all manner of tourist-tat as well as some reasonable pieces of art. I will return for souvenier-buying once I have learnt how to bargain somewhat, or found a Brazilian to haggle for me. Now, the exciting thing here is that to get to the market, you need to take the Elevador Larcedo, which is the only way to get down from the Pelourinho unless you really want to risk mugging by taking one of the winding roads down. The elevator is only 5 cents a go, and its so fast, you feel like you´re on a rollercoaster!! I met up with Isabelle and Steve for drinks and a meal later on in Barra, and while we were out we semi-watched a football match. I believe it was Brazil against Chile,in the Pan-American Cup, and Brazil won 6-1. There was quite a good atmosphere on the streets that night. Isabelle and I are going to make inquiries to go and see a football game in Salvador, because it would be a great way to get a feel for the Brazilian love for the beautiful game!
Ahhhhh, I forgot to tell you about the inter-cultural meeting on Friday night. Well, that wasn´t much of a success, given most of us cannot speak conversational Portuguese yet. So, instead we just got to know one another more, which was cool. Lev wanted everyone to go to some clube 20 minutes drive away from the bar, but a lot of us didn´t have enough money to go there, pay the R$20 to get in, buy drinks and get back to our homes. So, although I wanted to check it out, I had to decline, given I only had R$21 on me! Still, there´s plenty of time to be ripped off to get into a club yet! Here, you pay once you leave the club, so can you imagine what would happen if you had drunk more than you could afford to pay?!
Yesterday, I relaxed for most of the day, and read my books in various locations. It was really warm, so I could have gone to Bonfim, but I decided to go on Saturday this week, for personal reasons. I finally managed to get to a pharmacy too to get some cream for the itchy mozzie bites. Ahhhh, the relief is immense! Today, two new students have joined our class to replace Lev and Lin who have left. It´s a little hard for them, as we have already progressed a bit, and they simply have to catch up, but hopefully they won´t struggle too much. The school has organised a tour to the Pelourinho today, but dear god, there´s no need for me to go to that, given I live right here and see it all the time. So I´m gonna chill, and then maybe go to the extra-curricular dance class, depending on whether I have enough energy!
So, one week in, and I´m still enjoying myself! Must find some detergent so I can wash my clothes soon :-( Don´t think I´m missing England yet (though, obviously, I am missing all of you!) but I know that when I get back, it would be sooooo great to eat cereal, as I don´t think the milk here is too good. Keep writing to me, when you can. Até logo!
Next, we dashed to the Catedral Basilica across from the museum. This was once the chapel of the largest Jesuit seminary outside Rome. The inside of the cathedral as just amazing and unexpected, given the grubby, drab exterior. The ceiling was made of panelled, carved and guilded wood, and the side chapels decorated heavily in gold and in a sort of Roccoco style. Behind the main part of the cathedral was a recently restored sacristy, where portraits of Jesuit luminaries (on the wall and ceiling) gaze down intimidatingly on intruders. Downstairs was the crypt, alongside a constant nativity scene. One of the bricked-up crypts looked like it was freshly used, as the cement seemed a little new. Creepy.
From here, we rushed over to the Igreja de São Francisco, which is one of the best examples of azulejo work in Brazil (Portuguese blue tiling, used to tell a story). We had a quick look around, but didn´t pay to get into the church proper, as we decided lunch was more important. Down the road we found a bizarre creperie-cum-hostel filled with youngsters. Anyway, the crepes were sooooo good and filling. I may go back one day for a sweet version.
By now the rain had died down so we headed towards the Mercado Modelo, an old covered market, which has plenty of stalls selling all manner of tourist-tat as well as some reasonable pieces of art. I will return for souvenier-buying once I have learnt how to bargain somewhat, or found a Brazilian to haggle for me. Now, the exciting thing here is that to get to the market, you need to take the Elevador Larcedo, which is the only way to get down from the Pelourinho unless you really want to risk mugging by taking one of the winding roads down. The elevator is only 5 cents a go, and its so fast, you feel like you´re on a rollercoaster!! I met up with Isabelle and Steve for drinks and a meal later on in Barra, and while we were out we semi-watched a football match. I believe it was Brazil against Chile,in the Pan-American Cup, and Brazil won 6-1. There was quite a good atmosphere on the streets that night. Isabelle and I are going to make inquiries to go and see a football game in Salvador, because it would be a great way to get a feel for the Brazilian love for the beautiful game!
Ahhhhh, I forgot to tell you about the inter-cultural meeting on Friday night. Well, that wasn´t much of a success, given most of us cannot speak conversational Portuguese yet. So, instead we just got to know one another more, which was cool. Lev wanted everyone to go to some clube 20 minutes drive away from the bar, but a lot of us didn´t have enough money to go there, pay the R$20 to get in, buy drinks and get back to our homes. So, although I wanted to check it out, I had to decline, given I only had R$21 on me! Still, there´s plenty of time to be ripped off to get into a club yet! Here, you pay once you leave the club, so can you imagine what would happen if you had drunk more than you could afford to pay?!
Yesterday, I relaxed for most of the day, and read my books in various locations. It was really warm, so I could have gone to Bonfim, but I decided to go on Saturday this week, for personal reasons. I finally managed to get to a pharmacy too to get some cream for the itchy mozzie bites. Ahhhh, the relief is immense! Today, two new students have joined our class to replace Lev and Lin who have left. It´s a little hard for them, as we have already progressed a bit, and they simply have to catch up, but hopefully they won´t struggle too much. The school has organised a tour to the Pelourinho today, but dear god, there´s no need for me to go to that, given I live right here and see it all the time. So I´m gonna chill, and then maybe go to the extra-curricular dance class, depending on whether I have enough energy!
So, one week in, and I´m still enjoying myself! Must find some detergent so I can wash my clothes soon :-( Don´t think I´m missing England yet (though, obviously, I am missing all of you!) but I know that when I get back, it would be sooooo great to eat cereal, as I don´t think the milk here is too good. Keep writing to me, when you can. Até logo!
